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SOYES ^H£ 



SLEEVES. 



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Scyes and Sleeves, 



THEIR DEFECTS m REMEDY. 



APPLICABLE TO ANY SYSTEM, 




b 



: by : 

t 
FRANK A. VANAARLE 






PEICE, OHSTE 3D( 



TOLEDO, oiiio: 

|os. II. Harris, Printer, 1026 Broadway. 

. . . 1893 . . . 



Copyrighted 1893, by F. A. Van Aarle. 



SCYES AND SLEEVES, 

THEIR • DEFECTS • AND • REMEDY, 
Applicable to Any System. 



There is many a good coat killed by a bad 
sleeve is a saying- with which most all cutters of ex- 
perience are familiar, while in reality more good coats 
are killed by a bad scye than bad sleeves, but some- 
times both are at fault. 

Man is built in such proportions that his arm 
socket is a certain dimension of his breast size, and 
irregardless of what the shape of his form may be 
high shouldered, low shouldered, stooped or erect it 
always will retain its normal form and as a natural 
consequence to fit, the scye should be that of the 
normal form. 

This fact is lost si<>ht of in the making of a draft. 



For the different types of erect, stooping, high or 
low shouldered forms, different styles of scye, as the 
open and closed scye, according to the cutters ideas, 
many times differing in size for the same bfeast meas- 
ure are cut, while I defy any cutter no matter how 
well posted on this point, that has an opportunity to 
see an arm cut off and taken out of its socket to 
tell to what particular form it belonged. 

Sometimes sleeves are cut by the size of breast 
at other times by the size of scye. In the one case 
the coat is killed by a good sleeve into a bad scye, 
in the other, by neither scye nor sleeve being in ac- 
cordance with the proportionate size of arm socket to 
breast. 

It is now evident to produce the desired result, 
that first: The size of scye must be the proportion- 
ate size of arm socket to breast, and second: The 
sieeve must conform with the scye. 

By observing the following thoroughly tested ex- 
planations I assure any cutter, no matter what system 
he uses, if proportionate patterns are what they should 
be, an effective and reliable remedy for all troubles 
arising from either defective scye or sleeve. 

To produce the first requisite. "The size of scye 
must be the proportionate size of arm socket to breast." 
Draft a set of proportionate patterns for the different 
sizes according to the system you are using, cut and 
notch them as per diagram A. Notches are \ l /i 
inch either way from point A. In Drafting obtain 
depth and front oi scye and mark notches same as 
on proportionate draft \y 2 inches from A. 



Place these notches on each other and draft your 
back scye from B to C, see diagram B; next find your 
shoulder point and draw line D, hold notches C to- 
gether and twist proportionate pattern until its should- 
er point rests on line D and mark front of scye from 
E to C. 

Now make sweep of shoulder point, from point 
squared by notch F on natural waist line, measure 
length of back shoulder seam from G to B and ap- 
ply same less 3/% inch from E to sw r eep of shoulder 
point on a straight line, and form shoulder according 
to proportionate pattern from E to shoulder point. 

For any form the scye now remains the required 
size according to the breast, and all that is necessary 
to obtain the second requisite. "The sleeve must 
conform with the scye" is to draft a set of propor- 
tionate sleeve patterns for the different sizes. 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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